Denmark's West Coast Part 2: Wild winds, wicked waves and wonderful trails

Aug 3rd-11th, 2023

By Line

Day 7: Chasing Ferries and a stiff head wind
It was a bit of a hectic start to the day as we were trying to time our leaving time to catch the ferry before noon. We had gotten into the habit of getting some pretty late starts, so this was a bit of a challenge. It was further challenged when google lead us astray along a very bumpy dike trail, causing us to miss the ferry. The little kids bike the trail back, while F and I headed in to town to get tickets for the ferry. Christian almost missed the ferry again as it turned out it leaves, not at the scheduled time, but as soon as it is full. 
On the other side, we faced the formidable Agger Tange, a 10 km stretch of flat land dividing the North Sea and The Limfjord. A stiff headwind made the journey tough, and to make matters worse, we had to fix another flat tire in the chariot. Considering the relentless wind, we debated taking the road instead of the coastal trails. However, a stop for groceries in Agger led us back to the trails, which proved to be a splendid decision. The area was breathtaking, with trees offering some protection from the winds. I couldn't help but notice the buzzing flies around me, a testament to the fact that I really needed a shower.
Our shelter for the night was in the small town of Svankjaer. It exhibited a quaint charm, complete with a serene pond, abundant plum and apple trees, and powered shelters. Despite the convenience, we opted to set up our tent to protect W from the nighttime mosquito onslaught. Throughout the evening, the kids lavished attention on the stone ducks by the pond, giving them the royal treatment with washes, food, and affectionate petting. It was a heartwarming end to a day.

Day 8: Dancing with the wind
The previous night's storminess lingered in the air, but the day commenced beautifully with a ride through a mostly forested section of the national park. Riding side by side, we spun tales all the way to Stenbjerg. Our daydreams of playing on the beach were thwarted by the gusts, prompting a search for a sheltered spot. Luck was on our side as we stumbled upon a playground with a sturdy fence shielding us from the relentless wind. Huddled together close to the fence, Christian and I enjoyed a moment of respite while the kids reveled in play and snacks.
​A quick stop at Vorupør beach allowed us to witness surfers in action. As we rode to Klitmøller, the wind became our ally, hitting us from the side or slightly from the back, creating a sensation of flying. We considered going all the way to Hanstholm but opted for a booked shelter, a charming refuge nestled just behind the outermost dune ridge on private property. Evening at the beach was wild and windy, with the kids captivated by seafoam until sunset.

Day 9: Shaking Shelters and Coastal Bliss
​The night had been windy, causing even our shelter to shake at points, but by morning, the wind had calmed. With an efficient start and a brief beach visit, we were ready to embark after 2.5 hours. The wind now at our backs, we soared along a straight bike path beside the kystvejen, feeling as though we were flying towards Hanstholm. Along the way, we encountered cheers from Mormor and bedste Leif, leaving them a grocery order and planning to meet at Vigsø strand.
In Hanstholm, we cycled beneath towering windmills, an awe-inspiring sight that both fascinated and slightly scared N. The path to Vigsø was a cyclist's dream—smooth hard-packed gravel, undulating coastal terrain, the sea on one side, no cars in sight, and a perfect tailwind. Arriving at Vigsø strand, we set up by a bunker and enjoyed an impressive lunch spread from Mormor. The afternoon was spent swimming, stacking rocks, and exploring bunkers. As late afternoon approached, we headed to the shelter in Madsbøl plantage, nestled deep in the woods. Dinner was provided by Mormor and bedste Leif, and aside from a minor kid-toilet issue, we had a peaceful evening together before bidding our final farewells. During the nightly tick check, both Christian and I discovered ticks, adding a twist to the day's adventures.

Day 10: Exploring Dune Plantage and a Desperate Search for Teddy
Today's journey took us through the diverse landscapes of the dune plantage, featuring wooded areas, grasslands, and heath. Our first major climb took us to the summit of Bulbjerg, a 47m tall limestone knoll, where we captured a classic summit picture. Eager to escape the increasing winds, we quickly moved to a sheltered forest for lunch.
The afternoon of biking extended longer than planned. Our initial campsite lacked amenities, and considering the forecasted wind, we sought a more sheltered spot with a toilet. Biking past 7 pm, we found a wooded shelter area with the luxury of a real flush toilet nearby. With no time to reach the store before closing, we indulged in a feast of accumulated leftovers, generously spreading condiments and devouring bread spreads.
A crisis struck before bedtime when F's beloved Teddy, inherited from her dad, went missing. Emptying all bags proved futile, prompting Christian to embark on an 80 km nighttime bike ride back to the previous campsite. Unfortunately, Teddy remained elusive.

Day 11: Rainy Misery and Shelter in Blokhus
It turned out that the additional night-time biking was completely unnecessary as we located Teddy underneath the one sleeping pad. Packing up, we faced increasing winds, but fortunately, they were mostly on our side once we hit the road. The weather, however, took a turn for the worse—rainy and generally miserable. Skipping breaks, we headed straight to Blokhus. With strong winds forecasted, we secured a room at the campsite, much to the kids' excitement for some indoor time after 11 days on the road.
En route, F yearned for a proper meal and a shower, desperate to escape the trauma of the last 24 hours of condiment-mixed leftovers. The room, though small, became our haven, where we squeezed in with our belongings. After showers and some Netflix, the storm really started to unleashed its fury.

Day 12: Weathering the Storm
The storm raged on, forcing us to hunker down in our tiny room. From the safety of our shelter, we witnessed the havoc outside as camper tents were dismantled by the relentless wind. Our day was broken up only by an  essential trip to the grocery store and occasional bathroom breaks. At times it seemed kind of dangerous to go to the washroom, and when I tried to carry my tea across the lawn from the communal kitchen half of it would blow out.  With gusts measuring more than 100km/h winds along the west coast, it felt prudent to stay hidden indoors. Our original plan to visit Faarup Sommerland was thwarted by the storm, and we were content to wait. Later in the day, the stir-craziness led us to venture out for a couple of hours on the playground, cautiously navigating the still blustery conditions.

Day 13: Taming the Wind for Amusement
The wind persisted but the storm had subdued enough for us to brave a visit to Faarup Sommerland and relocate to a cabin nearby. The bike ride was manageable without a headwind, and after dropping our belongings at the campsite office, we embraced a day of play in the amusement park.
The park, eerily empty with only a few guests at each ride, became our private playground. We hopped on roller coasters, toured the park on a train, and explored the vastness of Faarup Sommerland. Despite being too large to fully explore in one day, we maximized our time on roller coasters, participated in traffic school, and navigated obstacle courses. The absence of lines allowed us to enjoy each ride repeatedly, creating one of our best amusement park experiences.
However, age caught up with us, and continuous rides left Christian and me feeling a bit woozy by the end. The lack of time for a proper break probably didn't help. With 15 minutes before closing, we raced to try the last two roller coasters and secured a pony ride for the little one. F initially had cold feet but stayed on, thanks to the persuasive efforts of a worker as it turned out to be one of the better rides. N, the ever-calm 6-year-old, maintained her stone-faced smile on the ride picture.
As the park closed, we celebrated our successful day with ice cream before retreating to our comfortable cabin.

Day 14: Marvellous dunes on a long day
With our ferry to Norway looming just one day away, Day 14 presented a long journey ahead. The comfort of our cabin made leaving challenging. Fortunately, the weather was with us, easing the departure. Though there were many tempting stops along the way, time constraints forced us to bypass the famous Løkken, making only a brief visit to the hardware store for fuel.
The wind, still too brisk for a beach stop, led us to a playground in Nr. Lyngby for our break. I, however, couldn't resist the allure of the beach and ventured there alone to check out the coastal view. At Rubjerg Knude fyr, enticed by the mesmerizing sand dunes, we biked the trail to get as close as possible. Eyes squinted and mouths covered, we hiked to the top of the dune, the wind depositing sand in every crevice. While W wasn't impressed, the older kids reveled in the thrill of running down the dunes.
Evening approached as we rolled into Tornby, but we still prioritized an ice cream stop before reaching the shelter site in the Plantage. Nestled in a beautiful location, the site allowed the kids to run through meadows and build imaginary homes in the forest.

Day 15: Onwards to New Adventures
We got up really early by our standards and packed up faster than expected. We were headed to our ferry in Hirtshals that was leaving at noon. The ride into town was smooth and fast, so we had lots of time to figure out the right line to wait in. And then we waited, for hours, ready to wave goodbye to Denmark and say good day to a new adventure in Norway.