This post - 17 to 19 June
~ 72 km, 600 m - biked with the whole family
~15 km, 1600 m - extracurricular hiking
See also: our-european-bike-tour-people-and-equipment
After a quick stop to pick up groceries we headed up the next valley riding up Bråtåvegen, past Liavatnet, to Mysubytta. Eventually the road became a toll road, and Mysubytta at the head of the valley was nothing more than a small cottage community, seemingly abandoned except for a rather large number of free roaming livestock. So we basically had the place to ourselves. Liavatnet was gorgeous, as was the whole valley, and Mysubytta appeared like a postcard dotted with sturdy turf-roofed cottages.
The road was not only steep but also loose, and I had to dismount for the first time after loosing traction. That is when I discovered that, on loose surfaces, I'm actually better off on the bicycle! If I have to get off due to traction loss I can't actually push the ~250 lbs of bike/gear/kids up the hill; since I only weigh ~160 lbs I don't get enough traction with my feet to do so. I just hold onto the brakes and wait for assistance. Fortunately, such instances were rare.
We again involked allemannsretten to camp in Mysubytta, but had a tough time finding a location that wasn't covered in poop, due to all the livestock roaming around. Laerke had an interesting instance where she wanted to open a gate. A herd of cows, seeing that she was going to open the gate, came running at full-speed. I guess they (like her) wanted to get to the other side... but everybody remained trapped because the cows can't figure out the gate, and Laerke was pretty sure she couldn't hold them back were she to open it.
Eventually we settled on a location with slightly less poop than everywhere else... normally I wouldn't mind, but N (still under 1 year old) still touches everything and puts most things in her mouth. I flicked all the poop out of an area roughly four square meters, marked the perimeter with sticks, and told N to stay inside. Line said it was a futile effort, but N understood me and stayed inside (I only had to pick her up and put her back in once). She even went the the edge and just cried when she wanted out.
In the evening I continued the extracurricular activities and climbed most of the way to Tverreggi. Unfortunately, a combination of incoming clouds and pocket glaciers kept me from going beyond the plateaux beneath the summit. Still, it offered a great view of the valley and I caught a glimpse of a large ungulate bounding away as a returned to camp.
As usual, Fenya did more riding on the way back down than up. About a third of the way back to town we realized that we'd inadvertently contributed to the poop problem up in Mysubytta - we'd forgotten to fill in our own poop hole. The kids took a break while I biked back up with only the shovel to do the deed. Felt like flying without all the stuff...
We biked down to the Dønfoss camping area, where we took much needed showers and spent a day recharging ourselves and doing laundry. I bought maybe too much at the grocery storre, including a can of corn which we couldn't open, as we'd lost our swiss-army knife. Fortunately a Brazilian motor home guy offered us a can opener. While setting up our tents I was in the middle of telling Laerke a story about a tent blowing away, when a gust of wind blew my tent away. Fortunately I caught it before it ended up in the river. I again snuck off after the kids fell asleep to climb something next to camp and ticked off Oyberget in just under 2 hours (return).
Next: Bike Touring in Norway Part IV - Jotunheimen National Park and Valdresflye Plateaux